Water X-Tract Basement System Installation Guide

How to waterproof your wet basement DIY guide

Non-invasive basement waterproofing channel ideal for monolithic foundations.

Ideal for waterproofing monolithic foundations or when you need a non-invasive basement waterproofing system. Installing the Water X-Tract Basement System is a simple process. The step-by-step instructions below will walk you through in detailed how to waterproof a basement with this above-floor baseboard channel.

Installation Guide (PDF)

How to waterproof your wet basement DIY guide baseboard waterproofing beaver channel

Helpful Tips Before You Start

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One of the most important steps when installing the Water X-Tract Basement System is prepping your concrete floor. Be sure your floors are free of paint, dust, and residues.

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Pro-SealOnce Adhesive is moisture activated and cures in wet conditions. Moisture isn’t necessary for the adhesive to cure. You can install when concrete is damp to the touch, but avoid installing system in stadnding or running water.

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There is no need to prep your basement walls, as the top of the channel is not sealed to allow any seepage from the face to be collected behind the system and carried to the drain outlet.

Step 1: Relieve Hydrostatic Pressure (Block Walls Only)

If you have a block wall foundation you’ll start by relieving the hydrostatic pressure by drilling 1/2” to 5/8” weep holes into the hollow cells (4” to 6” in from each mortar joint) of your block walls at the point where the floor and wall meet. Solid poured concrete, brick and stone walls have no hollow cavities, therefore, you don’t drill weep holes.

Remove any paint, dirt or residue from concrete basement floor

Step 2: Remove Any Paint, Old Adhesive or Debris From Concrete

To properly bond and seal the system to the concrete floor the floor area along the wall approximately 3” wide must be stripped to bare concrete. To remove all paint and tile adhesive, use a metal drill attachment to nick at the surface. Do NOT use paint strippers or chemicals of any kind to remove old paint or adhesive.

Step 3: Clean Floor Properly

Important step! Sweep the concrete clean of any debris and dust. Clean the bare concrete floor by washing the surface with clean water (no soap) and a sponge to remove all dirt and dust. When you are finished rub the area with the pads of your fingers feeling for an loose grit left behind. If you feel loose grit, clean the area again with clean water and your sponge.

Step 4: Layout System

Now, you’re ready to cut and trial fit the main sections along the basement walls. Place inside and outside corners where needed. Next, place full main sections end-to-end along the walls. Use a tin snips, hacksaw or miter saw to cut the main sections as needed. Layout the system just as it will be permanently installed.

Step 5: Applying Bottom Bead of Adhesive

Important step! The bottom bead of adhesive is your system’s structural bond to the concrete floor. Start by turning the main section over and apply a tall, thick bead of adhesive (about the size of your thumb) to the bottom of the main section. Turn the main section back over and set in place. Do NOT press down too hard. Lightly, seesaw the main section a little right and left to better contact Pro-SealOnce Adhesive to the floor. Then hold the main section in place with gentle pressure for about 30 seconds. This gives the adhesive a little pressure and time to ooze down into the concrete fines creating a permanent structural bond.

Step 6: Installing Butt Joints

Using coarse sandpaper, rough up the ends of the main sections and back side of the butt joints. This will give you a strong bond between all vinyl-to-vinyl surfaces. Wipe the areas free of dust. Apply Pro-SealOnce Adhesive on both ends of the adjoining main sections.

Next, hook the butt joint at the bottom of the main section and “snap” in place at the top. It’s okay if a butt joint will not “snap” in place. The floor may be unlevel or baseboards my not line up exactly. Seal the edges of the butt joints and caulk the bottom to ensure there are no leaks. Clean up the edges of the butt joints using a putty knife.

Step 7: Installing Corners

Start by roughing up the ends of the main sections and back side of corner with coarse sandpaper. Apply Pro-SealOnce Adhesive on both main sections. Apply Pro-SealOnce Adhesive on bottom of the corner before setting in place. Inside corners are easy to install when dropped down from the top. Seal the corner’s edges and caulk the bottom for a watertight bond. Clean up the edges of the corners using a putty knife.

Step 8: Installing End Caps

Run a bead of Pro-SealOnce Adhesive down the wall and along the floor where the end cap will be installed. Set the end cap in place. Caulk all the joining surfaces using the Pro-SealOnce Adhesive. Using your fingers dipped in liquid soap, feather out the Pro-SealOnce Adhesive along the edges of the end cap for a watertight bond.

Step 9: Applying Finishing Seal

Important step! Working with one main section at a time, caulk the floor joint with enough pressure to force some Pro-SealOnce Adhesive under the system. Immediately follow to next step…

Step 10: Easy Water-Tight Seal

Important step! As soon as you caulk each section and before Pro-SealOnce Adhesive starts to thicken, slick down the finishing bead of adhesive our NEW Perfect SealOnce bull-nose tool. Notice how we raise the handle until the straight edge of our tool rubs flush against the face of the system (watch the video on how to use the NEW Perfect SealOnce Tool Kit at the top of this page). Holding the tool in this position slowly drag it all the way down the system leaving a perfect seal. The finishing seal is your water-tight seal of your system.

Step 11: Draining the System

There are two options when draining the Water X-TractBasement System. Option A: drain into a floor drain.
Option B: drain into a sump pump. Drainage to a sump pump in most communities is the proper method of disposing of ground water. Be sure to check with your local building codes before draining to a floor drain.

Step 11-A:
Option A (Drain into Floor Drain)

Set the drain port in place and trace along the outside. Using a tinsnips, cut out the opening in the main section. Glue the drain port to the floor and seal the joint between drain port and main section with Pro-SealOnce Adhesive. Note: drain port does not slide into the system, it butts up to the system.

Step 11-B:
Option B (Drain into Sump Pump)

Set the drain port in place and trace along the outside. Using a tinsnips, cut out the opening in the main section. Glue the drain port to the floor and seal the joint between drain port and main section with Pro-SealOnce Adhesive. Note: drain port does not slide into the system, it butts up to the system. When draining to a sump pump, you will need to cut a small crescent-shaped opening in the lid to your sump lid so water can free fall into the sump basin.