How to Waterproof a Basement
Step-by-step guide on how to permanently fix your wet basement – yourself. No busting up the floor! No messy paints that don’t last! SealOnce Basement System is the Nation’s #1 DIY basement waterproofing system with over 50 years proven results!
Tips Before You Start…
- One of the most important steps when installing the SealOnce Basement System is prepping your concrete floor. Be sure your floors are free of paint, dirt and residue.
- SealOnce Adhesive is moisture activated and cures in wet conditions. Do note that you don’t want to install the system in standing water. You can install if the concrete is damp to the touch.
- There is no need to prep your basement walls, as the top of the channel is not sealed to allow any seepage from the face (wall crack leak or window well overflowing) to be collected behind the system and carried to the drain outlet.
- Weep holes are only needed with block wall foundations. If you have a poured, brick or stone wall do not drill weep holes.
A FEW HOURS TO 2 DAYS
Project Time (Depends on the size of your basement)
AVERAGE $6 PER FT
BASEMENT PROJECT CALCULATOR:
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– Sponge, bucket & broom
– Drill & 1/2″ or 5/8″ masonary bit
– Tin snips or hacksaw
– Caulking gun
– NEW Perfect SealOnce Tool Kit
Step 1: Relieve Hydrostatic Pressure
Relieve hydrostatic pressure by drilling 1/2” to 5/8” weep holes into the hollow cells (4” to 6” in from each mortar joint) of your block walls at the point where the floor and wall meet.
Tip → Solid poured concrete, brick and stone walls have no hollow cavities, therefore, you don’t drill weep holes.
Step 2: Remove Any Paint, Old Adhesive or Debris From Concrete
To properly bond and seal the system to the concrete floor the floor area along the wall approximately 3” wide must be stripped to bare concrete. To remove all paint and tile adhesive, use a metal drill attachment to nick at the surface. Do NOT use paint strippers or chemicals of any kind to remove old paint or adhesive.
Step 3: Clean Floor Properly
Important step! Sweep the concrete clean of any debris and dust. Clean the bare concrete floor by washing the surface with clean water (no soap) and a sponge to remove all dirt and dust. When you are finished rub the area with the pads of your fingers feeling for an loose grit left behind. If you feel loose grit, clean the area again with clean water and your sponge.
Step 4: Layout System
Now, you’re ready to cut and trial fit the main sections along the basement walls. Place inside and outside corners where needed. Next, place full main sections end-to-end along the walls. Use a tin snips, hacksaw or miter saw to cut the main sections as needed. Layout the system just as it will be permanently installed.
Step 5: SealOnce™ Adhesive
Angle cut the tip just under the cone shaped end. This will give you the largest opening needed for applying SealOnce™ Adhesive to all surfaces. One tube of SealOnce™ Adhesive is needed per main section for proper installation.
Step 6: Applying Bottom Bead of Adhesive
Important step! The bottom bead of adhesive is your system’s structural bond to the concrete floor. Start by turning the main section over and apply a tall, thick bead of adhesive (about the size of your thumb) to the bottom of the main section. Turn the main section back over and set in place. Do NOT press down too hard. Lightly, seesaw the main section a little right and left to better contact SealOnce Adhesive to the floor. Then hold the main section in place with gentle pressure for about 30 seconds. This gives the adhesive a little pressure and time to ooze down into the concrete fines creating a permanent structural bond.
Step 7: Installing Butt Joints
Using coarse sandpaper, rough up the ends of the main sections and back side of the butt joints. This will give you a strong bond between all vinyl-to-vinyl surfaces. Wipe the areas free of dust. Apply SealOnce Adhesive on both ends of the adjoining main sections.
Next, hook the butt joint at the bottom of the main section and “snap” in place at the top. It’s okay if a butt joint will not “snap” in place. The floor may be unlevel or baseboards my not line up exactly. Seal the edges of the butt joints and caulk the bottom to ensure there are no leaks. Clean up the edges of the butt joints using a putty knife.
Step 8: Installing Corners
Start by roughing up the ends of the main sections and back side of corner with coarse sandpaper. Apply SealOnce™ Adhesive on both main sections. Apply SealOnce™ Adhesive on bottom of the corner before setting in place. Inside corners are easy to install when dropped down from the top. Seal the corner’s edges and caulk the bottom for a watertight bond. Clean up the edges of the corners using a putty knife.
Step 9: Installing End Caps
Run a bead of SealOnce™ Adhesive down the wall and along the floor where the end cap will be installed. Set the end cap in place. Caulk all the joining surfaces using the SealOnce™ Adhesive. Using your fingers dipped in liquid soap, feather out the SealOnce™ Adhesive along the edges of the end cap for a watertight bond.
Step 10: Applying Finishing Seal
Important step! Working with one main section at a time, caulk the floor joint with enough pressure to force some SealOnce Adhesive under the system. Immediately follow to next step…
Step 11: Easy Water-Tight Seal
Important step! As soon as you caulk each section and before SealOnce Adhesive starts to thicken, slick down the finishing bead of adhesive our NEW Perfect SealOnce bull-nose tool. Notice how we raise the handle until the straight edge of our tool rubs flush against the face of the system (watch the video on how to use the NEW Perfect SealOnce Tool Kit at the top of this page). Holding the tool in this position slowly drag it all the way down the system leaving a perfect seal. The finishing seal is your water-tight seal of your system.
Step 12: Draining the System
There are two options when draining the SealOnce™ System. Option 1: drain into a floor drain. Option 2: drain into a sump pump. Drainage to a sump pump in most communities is the proper method of disposing of ground water. Be sure to check with your local building codes before draining to a floor drain.
Option 1: Floor Drain
Set the drain port in place and trace along the outside. Using a tinsnips, cut out the opening in the main section. Glue the drain port to the floor and seal the joint between drain port and main section with SealOnce™ Adhesive Note: drain port does not slide into the system, it butts up to the system.
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4 ft Main Section
Open back collects water for full length of basement – quick drain channel design! Easy to handle 4-foot sections.
NEW! Exclusive waterproofing sealant bonds water-tight in wet or dry conditions!
Pre-molded inside corners shortens install time and makes for a clean, professional finished look!
Easy to install pre-molded outside corner.
Connects main sections end-to-end sealing the channel water-tight.
End caps are used to dead-end the system.
Connects the system to a sump pump or floor drain.