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How to Waterproof Your Basement

Do-it-yourself SquidGee Dry basement waterproofing channel stops water leaking through the joint where the floor and walls meet.

No busting up your cement floor or hauling mud in-and-out of your basement! Bond and seal the easy to handle main sections to the floor using the our powerful, moisture-activated SealOnce Adhesive - last for decades!

 

With the SquidGee Dry System in place, walls can easily be finished, adding more usable living space to your home! Our easy to follow step-by-step guide will show you how to waterproof your basement like a PRO.

Included With Every Order Is Our Easy To Follow Step-by-Step Installation Guide!

1. Relieve Pressure

Drill 1/2" or 5/8" weep holes into the cells of each block (4" to 6" in from each mortar-joint) at the point where the floor and wall meet. Solid poured concrete, brick and stone walls have no cavities, therefore you don't drill weep holes.

2. Prep Concrete

This step is only necessary for concrete floors that have paint or left over tile or carpet adhesives. Use a metal paint stripper wheel with your electric drill to remove paint and adhesives from the floor 3" out from the wall. Do NOT use paint strippers or chemicals. You don't need to prep the walls as the top of the system is left open to allow any seepage from the face of the wall to be collected behind the system.

3. Clean Your Floor

Clean the bare concrete floor by washing with clear water and sponge to remove all dirt and dust. When finished feel the area with your fingers for any loose grit left behind.

4. Cut & Fit Main Sections

Now you are ready to cut and trial fit the main sections along the basement walls.

5. Placing Corners

Begin by placing per-molded corner sections in all the corners. Mark the floor in front of the corners showing where the main sections will stop.

6. Lay Out System

Place full sections end-to-end along the wall between the corners marked on the floor. Use a tin snips or hack saw to cut main sections as needed. Lay out the system just as it will be permanently installed. This is will make installation quick and easy.

7. SealOnce Adhesive

Angle cut the tip just under the cone shaped end. This will give the large opening needed for applying SealOnce to all surfaces.

 

Tip: You need 1 tube of SealOnce is needed for each 4 feet, 6 inch main section.

Bonds water-tight in wet or dry conditions!

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Basement Waterproofing Sealant
Basement Waterproofing Channel for DIY Homeowners
Easy to Install Pre-molded Corners

8. Apply Adhesive

Turn a main section over and apply a tall, thick bead of SealOnce to the bottom. Turn the main section back over and set in place. Press gently and hold in place for 30 seconds. Do NOT push down hard. This allows the SealOnce Adhesive to ooze down into the cement fines.

9. Install Butt-Joints

Butt-joints make a seamless watertight connection at the critical joint between main sections. Apply SealOnce Adhesive on both sides of the seam. Hook the butt-joint at the bottom and "snap" in place at the top. Sealing the edges of the butt-joints and caulking the bottom will ensure a water-tight seal.

10. Install Pre-Molded Corners

Install and seal our pre-molded inside and outside corners is easy. Inside corners are easy to install when dropped down from the top. Use a coarse sandpaper to rough up vinyl-to-vinyl surfaces. Apply SealOnce on both main sections and bottom of the corners. Seal the corner's edges and caulk the bottom for a leak-free bond.

 

Unlike other systems, NO mitering corner joints with the SealOnce System!

11. Apply Finishing Seal

Working with one main section at a time, caulk the floor joint with enough pressure to force some of the SealOnce Adhesive under the system. Immediately follow to step 12...

12. Slick Down Finishing Seal

As soon as you caulk each section, slick down the finishing bead of adhesive using a cornering tool or your fingers. When using your fingers, dip them in a little liquid dish soap to create a smooth and feathered finish.

13. Installing End Caps

End caps are used to dead end the system. Apply SealOnce Adhesive across the bottom, up the wall and down the edge of the baseboard. Set end cap in place and caulk all joining surfaces again.

14. How to Drain the System

You can drain your system into either a floor drain or sump pump. Be sure and check your local building codes before draining to a floor drain. Draining to a sump pump, in most communities, is the proper method of disposing of ground water. We carry a professional-grade do-it-yourself sump pump kit.

 

Using our 23" Drain Port (Item# SQ0006) cut and fit the port to length. Next, notch out the bottom of the main section to fit the drain port. Glue the drain port to the floor and face of the main section using the SealOnce Adhesive. The water will travel under the drain port and free fall into your floor drain or into the top of your sump pump pit. If you have a solid sump cover, cut out a notch at the edge to allow the water to free fall into the pit.

15. How to Finish Your Basement

With the system installed, easily finish your basement! Attach your 2”x 2” base plate to the wall 1/2” above the system. Run all firring strips down to the base plate. Panel only down to the base plate. Attach the base to the base plate to cover the System. To read the full finishing installation steps click here.

Questions?

If you have any questions,
please give us a call and we
are here to help!

(651) 644-2000

Waterproof.com | Basement Waterproofing Since 1965

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(651) 644-2000

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Formally Beaver Industries.