Sump Pump Kit
Easy Do-it-yourself Installation
Kit Includes: Check Valve, Zoeller M53 1/3HP Pump, Jackel Basin & Cover
Zoeller M53 1/3HP Sump Pump
Kit Includes: Zoeller M53 1/3HP sump pump, 1-1/2 inch check valve, Jackel pre-drilled basin, and Jackel gas-tight cover. Drain your DIY basement waterproofing channel into this rugged, contractor-grade PRO sump pump kit.
DIY Sump Pump Kit
$266.98 per kit
Sump pumps are the heartbeat of any basement waterproofing project, therefore, a quality pump is your best choice. Cast iron housing is the industry standard -- they are heavy, durable and dissipate heat well. When choosing a pump, consider the switch type. The diaphragm switch tends to be the least reliable. Tethered float switches do work well, until the tethered device comes in contact with the side of the basin leaving it unable to function correctly. Choosing a sump pump with a caged arm float switch is the favorable choice in the basement waterproofing industry, as they are protected from contacting the basin wall.
The standard sump basin measures 18” x 24”. There are basins designed to house up to three pumps, however, only one in five thousand homes have the need for a three pump system. Consider using a quality high water alarm in lieu of spending a fortune on a multi pump system. Your best protection is an alarm system that will call you when the system fails. This gives you the ability to address the problem as soon as it is necessary.
STEP 1: Chose the location for the sump by looking for the best place to discharge the water.
STEP 2: Prep your basin by randomly drilling 1/4” holes all around the sides of the basin.
STEP 3: Place the basin upside down on the floor no closer than 14” from the wall.
STEP 4: Using a piece of chalk draw a circle around the edge of basin on the floor and remove the basin.
STEP 5: Using a rotary hammer drill a ring of 1/2” holes clear through the floor about 6” apart just outside the chalked circle.
STEP 6: Using a sledge hammer or an electric hammer bust out the concrete from the center out to the ring of holes.
STEP 7: Remove the concrete and dig down 24”. Pour a 5” base of 1/2” rock in the hole to set the sump basin on, add or remove rock so the top of the basin is flush with the surface of the concrete floor.
STEP 8: With the basin in place pour rock around the outside of the basin until the rock is 2” to 3” from the surface of the concrete floor. Pour cement around the basin and trowel flush with the surface of the concrete floor.
STEP 9: Screw a 1-1/2” threaded PVC cup in to the pump. Glue a 8” long peace of PVC pipe in to the threaded PVC cup. Install the check valve onto the other end of the 8” long PVC pipe. Cut a piece of PVC pipe long enough to go from the top of the check valve to 6” above the surface of the concrete floor.
STEP 10: Now put the sump basin lid in place and glue a 45-degree elbow on the PVC pipe that’s sticking up through the cover. Plumb the PVC pipe back to the wall and 45-degree it up the wall and outside through the wall.
There are two options when draining the SquidGee Dry system. You can drain the system into a Sump Pump or directly into your basement floor drain...
STEP 1: Using out NEW Drain Port Channel, glue the port to the floor using the SealOnce Adhesive, directing the water from the SquidGee Dry main section to the top of the sump pump cover where water will free fall into the basin.
23" Drain Port
Questions? Call our PROs!
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