1. Relieve Hydrostatic Pressure
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Make weep holes about 5/8" in diameter into the cells of each block (4" to 6" in from each mortar-joint ) at the point where the floor and wall meet. Solid poured concrete walls have no cavities, so weep holes are not required. |
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2. Prepare the Surface Properly
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To properly bond and seal the system to the concrete floor, the floor area along the wall approximately 3" wide must be stripped to bare concrete. To remove all paint or tile adhesive, use a 3M metal paint stripper wheel with your electric drill. |
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3. Clean the Surface Properly
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It’s very important that you do this step properly. After floor area has been stripped, wash with clear water and sponge to remove all dirt and dust. When finished feel the area with your fingers for any loose grit left behind. |
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4. Cut and Fit the Baseboard Sections
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Now you are ready to cut and trial-fit the main sections along the basement walls. |
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5. Placing Pre-Molded Corners
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Begin by placing pre-molded corner sections in all the corners. Mark the floor in front of the corners showing where the main sections will stop. |
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6. Layout the SquidGee Dry System
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Place full main sections end-to-end along the wall between the corners marked on the floor. Use tin snips or hack saw to cut main sections as needed. Lay out the SquidGee Dry System just as it will be permanently installed. |
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7. SquidGee Dry SealOnce
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Angle cut the tip just under the cone shaped end. This will give the large opening needed for applying SealOnce to all surfaces. One tube of SealOnce is needed for each 4 ft 6 inch Main Section. |
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8. Applying SquidGee SealOnce
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It’s very important that you do this step properly. Turn a Main section over and apply a heavy bead of SquidGee SealOnce to the bottom. Turn Main section back over and set in place... Press gently!
DO NOT PRESS DOWN |
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9. Caulk Floor Joint
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It’s very important that you do this step properly. After floor area has been stripped, wash with clear water and sponge to remove all dirt and dust. When finished feel the area with your fingers for any loose grit left behind. |
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10. Prep By Sanding Surface
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You will get a much better bond if you use a coarse sandpaper to rough up any vinyl to vinyl surfaces. Do this to both sides of the joining baseboards and the Butt-Joint. |
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11. Applying Butt-Joints
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Apply SquidGee SealOnce on both sides of the seam. Hook the Butt-Joint at the bottom and snap in place at the top. It’s ok if a Butt-Joint will not snap in place. The floor may not be level or baseboards may not line up. |
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12. Seal Edges of Butt-Joints
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Sealing the edges of the Butt-Joints and caulking the bottom will insure there are no leaks. |
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13. Install Corners Last
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Inside corners are easy to install when dropped down from the top. Use a coarse sandpaper to rough up any vinyl to vinyl surfaces. Apply SealOnce on both main sections and the bottom of the corner piece. |
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14. Seal Edges of the Corners
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Sealing the edges of the Corners and caulking the bottom will insure there are no leaks. |
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15. Installing an End Cap
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Apply SealOnce across the bottom and up the wall and down the edge of the baseboard. Set end cap in place and caulk all joining surfaces again. |
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16. Directing Water to a Floor Drain
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Be sure and check your local building codes before draining to a floor drain. |
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17. Directing Water to a Sump Pump
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Draining to a Sump Pump in most communities is the proper method of disposing of ground water. |
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18. Paneling the Walls
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Attach your 2"x 2" base plate to the wall 1/2" above the SquidGee Dry System. Run all firring strips down to the base plate. Panel only down to the base plate. Attach the base to the base plate to cover the SquidGee Dry System.
Learn How to Finish Your Basement... |
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