How to Waterproof a Basement Yourself
This step-by-step installation guide details how to waterproof a basement yourself with the DIY SquidGee Dry System. This hollow baseboard gutter collects and channels water seepage to your sump pump or floor drain. You need one tube of SealOnce Adhesive per 4-foot 6-inch SquidGee Dry main section. Calculate the cost to waterproof your basement in seconds and see how much you will save by waterproofing your wet basement with the SquidGee Dry System.
Tools Needed: Sponge, bucket, drill and 1/2" to 5/8" masonry drill bit (only for block wall foundation), tin snips or hacksaw, and standard 10 oz. manual caulking gun.
Begin by placing the pre-molded corners into all the corners of the basement. Mark the floor in front of the corners showing where the main sections will stop.
Layout the system
Place full main sections end-to-end along the wall between the corners marked on the floor. Use a tin snips, hack saw or miter to cut main sections as needed. Layout the SquidGee Dry System just as it will be permanently installed.
Angle cut the tip under the cone-shaped end. This will give the large opening needed for applying SealOnce to all surfaces. (When installing the SquidGee Dry System, you will need one tube of SealOnce Adhesive per 4' 6" main section.)
Apply bottom bead of adhesive
Important Step! Turn a main section over and apply a tall, thick bead of SealOnce Adhesive to the bottom f the main section. Turn the main section over and set in place. Press in place gently for about 30 seconds!
Prep main sections for butt-joints
You will get a much better bond if you use a coarse sandpaper to rough up any vinyl-to-vinyl surfaces. Do this to both sides of the joining main sections and butt-joint. Follow sanding by wiping the main section gently free of dust.
Apply SealOnce Adhesive on both sides of the seam. Hook the butt-joint at the bottom and "snap" in place at the top. It's okay if the butt-joint doesn't make a snapping noise when in place. The floor may be uneven or baseboards may not line up exactly.
Seal edges of butt-joints
Sealing the edges of the butt-joints and caulking the bottom will ensure there are no leaks.
Install corners and seal edges
Inside corners are easy to install when dropped down from the top. Use a coarse sandpaper to rough up vinyl-to-vinyl surfaces. Apply SealOnce Adhesive on both main sections and the bottom of the corners. Seal the corner's edges and caulk the bottom for a leak-free bond.
Apply finishing seal
Important Step! Working with one main section at a time, caulk the floor joint with enough pressure to force some of the SealOnce Adhesive under the system. Immediately follow to step 14...
Slick down finishing seal
Important Step! As soon as you caulk each section, slick down the finishing bead of adhesive using a cornering tool or your fingers. Dip your fingers into liquid soap and slick down the seal, feathering it out onto the floor and up onto the system (household liquid dish or laundry soap will work).
Installing end caps
Apply SealOnce Adhesive across the bottom, up the wall and down the edge of the main section. Set end cap in place and caulk all joining surfaces again.
Draining the system
There are two options when draining the SquidGee Dry System, you can drain into a sump pump or basement floor drain....
1. Purchase a 2" round PVC pipe from your local hardware center.
2. Cut the round PVC pipe lengthwise creating a half-round shape.
3. Glue the opening of the half-round PVC pipe to the floor, directing the water from the system into the top of the sump pump or floor drain.
(Draining to a sump pump in most communities is the proper method of disposing of ground water. Be sure to check your local building codes before draining to a floor drain.)
Optional Step 17:
Finishing the basement
It's easy to finish your basement once the SquidGee Dry System is installed! Finishing your basement will create additional living spaces and add value to your home!